A Tale of Two Chemists: Gettysburg

Gettysburg ... Saturday 25 - Sunday 26 May, 2013

On Saturday morning we awoke to bright skies with a temperature of 28 degrees. While the wind had abated to some extent, it was still a cold morning. We left the Shenandoah National Park by the road to the west and headed for Luray. Breakfast at Uncle Bob’s was hot and hearty. By about 10 am we were underway to Gettysburg. Consulting the map, we realized that our route would take us through the eastern portion of West Virginia. Never having been to West Virginia before, I was not quite sure what to expect. From the highway, anyway, West Virginia doesn’t seem any different than Maryland.

Once we arrived in Gettysburg we were astonished at the traffic congestion. We found our “hotel”—really more of a suite or apartment. After unpacking the car and having a short rest, we proceeded to the visitor’s center at the Battlefield National Park. A short film helped set the battle of Gettysburg into the context of the Civil War and gave an overview of the three days of fighting. After a short time looking at the ‘cyclorama’ painting of the battle, we headed for the museum. Only the announcements regarding the closing of the museum, dislodged us from the building. We all thought the displays were excellent.

This morning after breakfast in ‘our kitchen’, we headed off to do the battleground drive. We were struck by the beauty and tranquility of the battleground—such a sharp contrast to the horror and carnage that would have been witnessed on those July days 150 years ago. Touring the area, I could see the Seminary Ridge, Cemetery Ridge and the other features that I’d read about in the past. Suddenly it was clear why the Union positions were so strong. One look at Little Round Top and you know you wouldn’t like to be part of an assault on that hill. The presence of so many regimental memorial markers gave us a sense of the battlefield as a huge cemetery. We were shocked to read that during the course of the civil war some 620,000 men were killed and more than 500,000 more were wounded.

Gloria

During our travels it has been fascinating to learn more about the history of the United States and to try and understand how different events relate to each other and how they have shaped the way the country is today. Over the past several weeks we have also spent a lot of time discussing to what extent the United States remains a divided nation and whether we are better placed today to resolve differences and create a clear path forward than we were 150 years ago. We have developed some impressions, but also have more questions now than we started out with. Perhaps we'll try and write these down in a future blog.

Mike

July 1st 1863 - The first Confederate troops approached from the west - Union soldiers fought to slow the advance - reinforcements arrived for both sides and after fierce fighting Union forces were driven back through the town of Gettysburg to high ground

July 2nd 1863 - Attacks by Confederate forces at both flanks in the areas of Culp Hill to the north and Big and Little Round Top to the south, were narrowly stopped by Union forces. A view here of Big Round Top from Confederate lines

July 3rd 1863 - A full frontal infantry assault followed hours of artillery exchange - now known as "Pickets Charge" - 12,000 Confederate soldiers in lines a mile wide advanced across the fields into murderous fire and were stopped by 7,000 Union troops in one of the most notorious actions of the civil war that sealed the outcome of the battle. Shortly thereafter Confederate forces retreated and headed back to Virginia. When the 3 days of fighting were done 53,000 men were dead, injured or captured and the tide of war was turned.