A Tale of Two Chemists: Exploring Falmouth and English Harbor ... Tues 26th

Exploring Falmouth and English Harbor ... Tues 26th - Wed 27th March

Tuesday 27^th, 2018

Once we were all ready to go to shore, we remembered that we hadn’t run the engine to cool the fridge! I stayed on board listening to the drone of the engine while Mike took the dinghy over to the Catamaran Club marina here in Falmouth bay. His purpose was to find out if we could fill up with water and diesel on their docks. Antigua is having a drought (it seems) and water is not easy to come by. When Mike asked at the closer docks, he was told we should take the boat round to English harbor and try to fill up there. That didn’t seem over appealing, nor did it sound like a sure thing. Fortunately, the catamaran marina could help us but not until 11 am. So, our plan to go to shore early was completely scuppered.

We called on the VHF at 10:45 and found out which dock and what side would be toward the dock. Preparations commenced: dock lines and fenders were deployed. Many parts of the bay are quite shallow so a circuitous route was required. The docking went smoothly for the most part, although getting the line to the bow across was a tad problematic! We filled with water and then diesel, paid and got underway with some help from the Danish boaters tied up in front of us. It has to be said that in the past to come into a dock with a boat already tied up would have made us very nervous. This time the docking only made me into a wreck, Mike was fine with it. We made our way back to the same spot (more or less) and re-anchored. Lunch was required before a trip to shore could be undertaken.

By mid-afternoon we were exploring the Nelson’s Dockyard area in English Harbor. The number and variety of massive boats was truly staggering. Although the mega-boat docks here in Falmouth are nothing to sniff at either. According to the guidebook, showers are available to all in the Dockyard. We were pleasantly surprised to be able to get a shower for the princely sum of $2(US)/person. It had been about a month since we’d had a ‘real water shower’ (at Rodney Bay on St. Lucia). Don’t get the idea that no washing has taken place on Cotinga. We employ a garden sprayer to shower with the minimum amount of water. While the sprayer works fairly well, there is nothing like a land-based shower. Even turning the water off while soaping up didn’t detract from the joy of lots of water flowing over my head. Mike complained that the water was not hot, I just saw that as an added benefit!

Wednesday 28^th 2018

Today we resolved to go to shore early and take a walk. We set off about 9:30 with the objective to walking to Stanley Heights –once the site of fortifications to protect English harbor. The tourist map made it look like about a mile. We were thinking a nice easy stroll. Not quite so much! First we visited Dow’s Hill which gave a view of the southern coast AND of the long, sunny road to Shirley Heights. Somehow 148 meters sounds like nothing but... It was a steady uphill march in the blazing sun. All the benefit of yesterday’s shower was undone. A thinking person would have realized that all forts are placed on high ground preferably with a good view. The return trip was somewhat easier. The entire outing took 4 hours and left us tired and famished. One of our friends from the rally said he was done with botanical gardens. Maybe I should be done with forts! As all our outings start from sea level, visiting forts is hot, uphill work.