The British Virgin Islands are undoubtedly beautiful, a
tropical paradise that I haven’t really started to explore. But the thing that
has stood out to me since my arrival is just how lovely the people are.
Everyone seems friendly and in good spirits, despite the trials of hurricane
Irma. As a tourist destination you might expect to see some resentment to
visitors, particularly around a marina where there is clearly a lot of external
money. But I haven’t picked up on any of that – the locals that I have met seem
genuinely lovely.
Prior to the rally, following hurricane Irma, there was some
discussion about whether it would be cancelled or perhaps re-located to another
destination. There was a clear message that the people of Tortola were
very keen that we go ahead as planned and that there would be real value in our
coming to Nanny Cay. Most of the boats (including Cotinga) carried down boxes
of electronic equipment – solar panels and solar powered systems – donated by
supporters of the rally. At the final rally dinner I was moved to hear Miles,
the manager of the marina, make a heart felt thank you to the rally and comment
that he was not sure that they would have been able to stay in business without
it’s support. Having seen all the work that is going on here I am confident
that the marina is well on the road to recovery and I hope our stopping here
has had at least some positive impact.
Talking of lovely people, I have to say a big thank you to
my friends from the rally who I joined for a Thanksgiving celebration.
Encouraged by Tom and Marge on Belize Magic I decided to take Cotinga out of
the marina and sail, single handed, over to Norman’s Island to join a group of boats for the day. The sail over was only 5 miles or so across the Sir Francis
Drake Channel and was teriffic with full main and genoa and about 8-10kts of wind
on the beam. Spotting some familiar boats in a quiet bay, I dropped sail and
motored in to pick up a mooring. It was a fabulous afternoon. First I went for
a snorkel around all the boats, saying hello to everyone. Then I prepared my
food contribution – tomato, caper and bacon salad with freshly baked bread,
then I needed to pick up a ride from Cotinga to the host boat Taiko. Fortunately
I spotted Sebastien, the elder son (~9 years old) of Rafaella and Richard on Numada on a paddle-board and he came over
and transported me to Taiko. We had a wonderful meal with a wide variety of
excellent food and drink, then I was able to persuade Matthew, the younger son
(~7 years old) to paddle me back to Cotinga. What a great way to get around!
Most of the boats were planning to moor out for the night and then continue
cruising the islands, but I was keen not to loose my slip at the marina and had
decided to head back. I motor sailed back to Nanny Cay in the late afternoon and with a decent breeze
(10-12kts) decided that caution was the better part of valor, switched over all
my fenders and lines, and took the boat into the slip bow-first. It all went
fine and I was able to bring the boat to a complete halt lined up alongside the dock and jump off and tie my lines all on my own! I’m glad I didn’t try stern-in
because any breeze catching the bow is a bugger to manage and with no extra
support could have turned out badly. Anyway, to the wonderful people on Taiko,
Spindrift, Belize Magic, Free Sailin and Numada – thanks for a wonderful day!
Mike
I am typically quite shy about asking people if I can take their photos (not a great attribute for an aspiring photographer - but I'm working on it!) ... but this fabulous lady just started posing as soon as she saw my camera!
I got chatting with this lovely lady who was taking a break outside - she lost her home during the hurricane and is staying with family at Nanny Cay. She says rebuilding her home won't happen quickly, but she remains remarkably cheerful.
This young girl was playing with her brother and sister and their cute little dog.
One of the Husky salvage crew working on lifting and propping up a toppled boat - more on that later
Another member of the Husky salvage crew
Numada on a mooring at Norman's Island - looking back to Tortola. Numada is a steel hulled vessel owned by Richard and Rafaella and their two sons Sebastien (~9) and Matthew (~7)
Taiko (on the left) kindly hosted our get together, with Free Sailin rafted up because all the moorings were taken. This was not a good shot, taken almost into the sun, but I was fixed on my mooring with little ability to move.
I spotted this tiny lizard on board yesterday whilst tidying up some lines - it was only an inch or two long
Here it is climbing onto a winch drum
Again...great to hear you’re hanging with the Canadians. We sailed (well motored) from Toronto to close to New York City with Free Sailin and Belize Magique.
ReplyDeleteAnd great job with the single handed sailing! Not sure if you remember but Ron is a single handed sailor. He’s done all of the Great Lakes single handed.
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