Salty sailing ... 31st January 2018
In preparation for the arrival of our friend Simon, we
needed to get to Vieux Fort today. The
town is at the southern end of St. Lucia and is home to the international
airport. The guidebook says of Vieux Fort: “it doesn’t have a tourist bone in
its body”. I’m not quite certain what
the author meant by that statement but it doesn’t seem overly complimentary.
We departed Soufriere at about 8:30 this morning motoring
away from the mooring field. We soon
turned to windward and put up the mainsail.
Once the 30 minutes of fridge cooling motoring was over we realized that
the wind was too light to sail. As we motored along the winds began to
strengthen. The seas were reasonable so
we started sailing with the full main and full genoa. After a while the winds had built to 15 kts
and we were heeled over at an angle that I wasn’t enjoying. We partially furled the genoa and carried on. The winds continued to strengthen and our
course (following the coast line) was turning more eastward. The seas were also building and the sailing
was getting a bit more difficult. As we made progress our destination became closer to the wind so we
elected to start the engine and roll up the genoa and motor the last couple of miles. There were plenty of whitecaps and lots of short
period wind waves. Several times I was
doused with spray. Our weather guy
supplies daily forecasts by e-mail. When
the conditions get a bit stiff (bigger winds and waves), he refers to it as
“salty sailing”. That’s what it was
today. At one point during our last
section, we saw 25kt on the wind gauge.
That was a tad saltier than I was anticipating.
We anchored off the fishing harbor and had some lunch. After lunch we got a list together for the
provisioning. Then it was time to get
the engine on the dinghy and check out the fishing harbor. On the walk into town, we stumbled across
some guys who were selling tuna. We
bought a three-pound fish and then debated having them clean it versus doing it
ourselves and opted to have hime do it. Once the steaks were bagged
we came to pay. To our surprise, the
money for the fish went to one guy and the fee for gutting and cutting went to
the chap who did the work (a massive $5 EC! or $2 US!). We found the grocery store and
got most of the items on our list. Toting it all back to the boat was less of a
joy. Although you can be sure we will
enjoy the consumption stage.
Despite not having a "a tourist bone in its body" the town is pleasant enough. It's lively and colorful and you don't get bombarded with offers of taxi rides or tours. It's just a little rough around the edges.
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