District 6

District 6   …   Monday 3rd June 2013

This morning we visited the museum dedicated to the former District 6. This was an area of Cape Town (one of 12 districts - hence the name), where the inhabitants were forcibly evicted as part of the program of segregation and urban development in apartheid South Africa. Whilst the story is specific to this one neighborhood it illustrates what happened on a much wider scale throughout the country. District 6 was a community where a very diverse group of people lived - primarily "people of color" but also some from Lithuania. Following the formal establishment of apartheid in 1948 the future of this area was always uncertain and in 1966 the local government started the forcible eviction of 60,000 people, moving them to townships on the outskirts of the city and leveling the buildings. Within these townships the now segregated "non-whites" were separated into different ethnic groups further destroying all sense of community. The standard of living was poorer and workers now had to travel some 15-30 miles to jobs in the city rather than walking. A campaign to stop re-development of the area succeeded in stifling investment and in the years that followed the only significant building was a large technical college (for whites - of course). In 1994, with end of apartheid and the establishment of democracy, it was agreed that any development of the area would include input from the former residents. A program of land claims was introduced (nationally) and by 1998 some 2500 claims with regard to District 6 had been filed, 900 from landlords and 1600 from tenants. These have now all been adjudicated - the majority of people eligible for awards accepted financial compensation but a number opted for the return of their property. Since that time only a tiny fraction of the promised houses have been built (about 250) and of these a substantial proportion remain un-occupied. For those people that are entitled to a house there is a charge and for many, in particular pensioners, the cost is more than they can afford. To me this story says so much about South Africa. It is little short of astonishing that the country progressed from apartheid to democracy without major bloodshed, but there is still so much to do to establish a society that is more equitable. The reality is that this will take a long time. The museum itself was created as part of the "Truth and Reconciliation" process and its primary purpose is to capture the memories of those that lived in District 6 and ensure that the history is not forgotten.

This afternoon we jumped on a loca train with Tash and went down to the beach at Muisenberg and walk along the coastal path to Kalk Bay. There were many people surfing … sorry Grant, Stew + Gunther, I still don't get why anyone would want to get into the cold water! The coastline was impressive with substantial waves rolling in, occasional downpours from passing squalls and a number of rainbows. As its got dark we took the train back and then ordered tae-away pizza at Tash's house.

Sea, surf and rainbow - Kalk Bay

Looking out through the surf to a distant anchored ship

Harbor Kalk Bay

Cormorant