A Tale of Two Chemists: Blyde River Canyon and back to Johannesburg

Blyde River Canyon and back to Johannesburg … Tuesday 11th - Thursday 13th June 2013

The Blyde River canyon Lodge where we are staying is fantastic. We have a cottage separate from the main building with a luxury master bedroom / bathroom upstairs and a second bedroom / bathroom downstairs along with a sitting room. There is access through french windows to the patio and a raised balcony off the master bedroom. On the night we arrived (Monday) we opted to eat dinner at the lodge, an option that we didn't know was available and we were tired of driving and happy not to have to head out again. We had a lovely 3 course dinner - squash soup, salad, steak and apple tart - with a fine bottle of South African wine. For breakfast there was fresh fruit and juice, croissants and hot meals cooked to order which included wonderful mushrooms in a creamy sauce. Throughout the service was excellent and we all felt this was a wonderful place to relax and enjoy our last few days together. On Tuesday we took a quick drive up the valley to the visitors center and did two short but beautiful hikes. The scenery was spectacular and the weather beautiful, as it has been since we arrived in Johannesburg. We came back to the lodge in the early afternoon and enjoyed a few peaceful hours hanging out. Then in the evening we jumped in the car and drove to the nearest town Hoetspruit, about 30 km away and went out for dinner at "Sleepers" - so called because it is located in some former railway buildings and is right next to the tracks. Again we had a very nice meal and enjoyed some cold draught beers. This is one area that South Africa can improve - the beer selection is pretty limited and not that inspiring. No micro-breweries here yet!

On Wednesday we again jumped in the car and took off on a circular tour of the local mountains. The area looks a bit like Zion National Park in Utah with impressive red rock walls soaring from the canyon sides. We took the so called "Panorama" route that takes you round the rim of the canyon. It was very impressive, but unfortunately the views were marred by poor air quality due to a large number of fires in the area. We aren't sure if these are deliberate or accidental but we saw at least half dozen fires during the day. It is the dry season and the grasslands look ready to burn at the slightest spark, but some of these fires did look like they were managed burns. On our way back to the lodge we ran afoul of the traffic police. We were following a large articulated lorry and when it pulled over into the breakdown lane / verge we took the opportunity to pass. The truck behind us did the same and then roared passed us. A short while later the traffic police shot past us, pulled over the truck ahead and waved us down. Apparently in passing the lorry we had crossed a section of double white lines in the middle of the road (not by much I should add). We were given the option of going back to the previous town and paying the fine or paying there and then in cash. We forked up the money (1000 rand = $100) but suspect that it went straight into the pockets of the policemen. Anyway it's best just to move on from these things. In the evening we once again ate at the lodge and had a lovely meal.

Thursday, our last day in South Africa and our travel day back to Johannesburg, came all too quickly. We packed up and made the ~ 6 hour drive without incident. The only excitement came with one ~ 50 km section of road that was so badly pot-holed that you had to dodge, weave and occasionally crawl to avoid taking an axle off the car. At the airport we planned to fill up with gas/petrol but arrived back at the rental garage without having seen the filling station. We were "faffing" around trying to figure out what to do and asked one of the garage attendants for advice. in a gesture that I think illustrates just how friendly and helpful people seem to be here in South Africa he jumped in the back seat of the car and directed us to the gas station and back to the rental office. No doubt he expected a tip (and got one) but he really helped and made life easier for us. It seemed hard to say goodbye to Tash at the airport. We had a totally amazing two weeks together and felt very fortunate to have had the chance to visit South Africa with her. It certainly helped us appreciate why she has had such a good time over here the past 6 months. It's a trip that we won't ever forget. Right now Gloria and I are sitting on the plane due to take off in 10 minutes for New York. Tash has a different flight plan booked months earlier and she should be leaving right now for Abu Dhabbai and then on to New York and finally out to Los Angeles. She is spending the summer working back at Pomona College in their "sustainability office".

One final comment - if you have the chance to visit South Africa .. don't hesitate. It's an amazing place in so many ways.