The Importance of Timing
Wednesday 7th and Thursday 8th May, 2025
Between the strong currents created by the large tides and the restricted bridge openings, traveling the ICW requires careful timing. We departed the mooring field in Beaufort shortly after 1pm to catch the 1:30pm opening of the adjacent bridge. Once safely through the bridge, there were many areas of shoaling to be avoided. The thought of the rising tide helped ease the worries. There were several difficult sections on our route that required careful and precise steering, but we arrived safely at the anchorage in the South Edisto River just before 6pm and spent a peaceful night in the marshes.
Knowing that we faced another notoriously shallow section shortly after getting started, we set the alarm for 5:30am to catch part of the morning high tide. Having investigated the time of sunrise, I speculated that it would be light by 6 am when we planned to depart. It seemed very dark at 5:30am, probably the result of cloudy skies, but shortly after 6:00am we were on the move. Our route would meander along different rivers and creeks, sometimes we were fighting current, at other moments we were zipping along with the flowing water. The day held some significant challenges including the Elliot Cut where the current flows at 4 knots and, shortly thereafter, the Wappoo Creek Bridge that only opens on the half hour. With the current carrying us, we had to slow the engine to avoid arriving at the bridge too early with the possibility of four knots of current pushing us into the pilings and roadway! During the four miles leading up to the bridge, we kept the engine at idle. Entering the Elliot Cut, you can detect the powerful current in the roiling of the water’s surface. The narrowest and fastest part of the Cut is mercifully brief, much stiller water greeted us on the far side as we approached the bridge, and we ghosted down the final half mile until the opening.
Once through the bridge, the next challenge was to dock at the Charleston City marina. We contacted them by radio and were told to prepare for a port side tie up on the mega yacht dock. Once at “piling #1”, we should radio for further instructions. The further instructions told us to turn around the end of the dock and tie up adjacent to “piling #2”. As the mega dock was currently on our starboard side, turning around the end to starboard would give us a starboard tie up. We were NOT amused. Further discussion on the radio elucidated that we should proceed to the “turning basin”, turn around and come back along the dock to tie up on the port side. Half instructions are not helpful in these docking situations. As we went by our “spot”, I thought, that doesn’t look like a lot of space! Thankfully, there were two people on the dock to take the lines. Mike did a fantastic job of getting the boat into the space which may have exceeded Cotinga’s length by as much as 6ft. A quick application of reverse, kept us from hitting the bow of the boat in front. Nerves were jangled by the time we were securely tied.
As we sat down to lunch, a short time later, we heard the first rumbles of thunder.(I found myself thinking “more good timing!”) A powerful thunderstorm ensued with heavy rain. I’m not sure why it feels safer to wait out a thunderstorm tied to the dock rather than underway. Perhaps it’s the idea of many masts substantially taller than ours in the near vicinity. Once the rain had subsided, we went for a wander around Charleston, admiring the old homes and trees. I was so totally turned around by the time we “headed back” that I was unsure that we would arrive at the correct waterfront. It’s a good thing Mike knew which way to go!
Gloria
32 46.730 N, 79 57.311 W
Ps. As we have been traveling along the ICW we have both been thinking that our “motor” has been sounding louder than normal. To be precise the engine sounds fine (in neutral) but when motoring forward the drive train sounds a bit “clackety”. We are starting to worry that we have a problem with our transmission or the Aquadrive (the universal joint / thrust bearing that connects the gearbox to the propeller shaft). There’s nothing obvious on an external inspection and I topped up the transmission fluid (which didn’t seem low), but I’m not sure there is much else we can do at this point other than hope that it holds up. Once back in East Greenwich I’m thinking we should pull out the gear box and take it in for servicing / refurbishment. It’s a worry ... Mike
The Lady's Island swing bridge - opens every hour, on the half hour from 9.30am - 4.30pm
Ripple patterns from our wake
Early morning from our dock at Charleston City Marina
The photos show such serene and peaceful scenes, but it sounds like your journey was a bit stressful with the tide, bridge, docking and motor issues. I hope the rest of the ICW is easier!
ReplyDeleteSo sorry to hear about the engine noise and worry. You still have a few miles to go, and worrying about the engine the entire way is not fun
ReplyDeleteHope the engine holds …. I am sure that you can limp her in and fettle it if it gets worse. You are a star in understanding your boat. Jo
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