A Tale of Two Chemists: Best Snorkeling Yet

Best Snorkeling Yet

Sorry for the delay posting ... we have been out of cell phone reception for many days. We have three posts ready to put up, but its very slow here, so this is the first and the other two will follow later today or tomorrow evening, when we should have better service.

Sunday 13th and Monday 14th April, 2025

On Sunday morning we left the anchorage near Galliot Cut and motored into the wind for about twenty miles. In contrast to the previous day (Saturday) there was substantial wind from the northwest. A short steep chop greeted our bows. It seemed a long twenty miles as the waves slowed the boat significantly. Once we got to Big Major Spot (near Staniel Cay) we were shocked by the number of boats and the size of the many motor vessels. Finding somewhere to anchor seemed like it would be a challenge. Eventually we were securely anchored and eating our lunch. Low tide was going to be a three pm. We figured that visiting the Thunderbolt Grotto would be best around low.

By two pm we were on our way. The dinghy ride seemed quite long, further than I’d imagined. When we got to the grotto/island, we found that the dinghy moorings were absent. Our resident genius had remembered to grab the anchor so we were soon settled. As a prelude to entering the cave, we decided to snorkel around the island. It was amazing—beautiful corals, lots of fish, plenty of them very large. Entering the “grotto” is a little tricky as there is a powerful flow of water coming out of the entrance. (Perhaps because of low tide?) Several ropes are attached to the ceiling of the entrance to allow the swimmer to drag themselves into the cave. Immediately there are large schools of fish (and plenty of other snorkelers). Once inside the main part of the cave, light beams down from openings in the top of the cave. There are so many fish everywhere that it’s hard to focus on which types you are seeing. A low archway led out of the cave on the opposite side that we had entered, and it looked navigable at this state of the tide. We went out that way and circled back to the entrance—enjoying the lovely fish and corals again. One more trip into the cave and we felt that we’d really done it properly. The dinghy ride back seemed even longer as the wind was cooling us. Not even the black wet suits were making up for being wet in the breeze! Am I really saying that I was CHILLY?

On Monday morning we contacted the Exuma Land and Sea Park, trying to get a mooring in the north mooring field. The Park Ranger suggested that it was unlikely but we decided to move up into the area. Along the way we heard many boats on the radio calling to request a mooring. All were advised that there were no moorings available. Based on those conversations, we chose to head toward the Emerald Rock area and radio in at the decision point. They say no plan survives contact with the enemy or in this case the lunch hour. Unable to get a reply, we motored toward Emerald Rock area and picked up a mooring. Just as we were on the final approach to the mooring, we saw ten dark shapes in the water off our port side. Mike shouted out “are those sharks or rays?” Peering over the side of the bow, I could just about determine that they were rays. Seven of them turned back but three crossed our bow. I didn’t see where they went as it was time to grab the mooring pennant. Sadly, when we contacted Park HQ to say we had arrived they told us they had a mooring for us in the north field. Just what we had feared would happen! However, we decided not to motor the six or so miles to the other area. We hope to get an assignment tomorrow.

I would be remiss if I didn’t mention today’s sail. The wind was more northeast and we were traveling northwest. The seas were fairly calm. The wind speed was 8-14 knots. It was idyllic. Such a change from bashing into the chop and wind yesterday.

This afternoon we snorkeled the small reef patches around Emerald Rock. Although these were small areas, there were plenty of small fish and a few rather large ones hiding in cracks and under overhanging rocks. We hit all four of the areas that had dinghy mooring balls. Mike dropped me at the area near our boat (nowhere to tie up the dinghy). I had a quick scoot around the reef patch and swam back to Cotinga.

Gloria