Alligator River and Albermarle Sound

Alligator River and Albermarle Sound   …   Saturday 22 June 2013

We were up and away from our anchorage off Deep Point at the south end of the Alligator River by 6.15am. Last night there ended up being about 5 boats in this anchorage and we were the second to last to leave! We motor-sailed 20 miles up the river, doing our best to outrun the storms that seemed to be chasing us. The river is maybe a mile wide in parts but the channel is only a few hundred feet wide. We rolled up the genoa, passed by the Alligator River swing bridge and then carefully navigated the shallow S-bend channel that leads out into Albermarle Sound, briefly seeing depths of less than 8 feet - a bit spooky. After this it was up with all the sails and we had an excellent 12 mile sail across Albermarle sound, before once again dropping the sails and motoring a further 15 miles onwards up the North River to the Coinjock Marina. Here we tied up to the long end dock and filled up with diesel and water, pumped out and dumped our trash. During the day we had played cat and mouse with a boat called "Maggie", but it wasn't until they too pulled into the Coinjock Marina and tied up next to us that we got to actually meet and talk to Gail and John. Afetr we had all completed our housekeeping jobs and taken showers we met up for a drink on board our boat and exchanged stories. John and Gail had lived aboard their boat for 10 years, including five years in the Caribean, before returning to land life in Illinois four years ago to look after ailing parents. Now they are back spending a summer on board traveling up from North Carolina to an as yet undecided location in New England. After drinks, Gloria and I enjoyed a good dinner at the marina restaurant and plan to get up early tomorrow to finish the final 50 miles of the ICW up to Norfolk.

Mike

36 20.88 N, 75 56.963 W

Power sailing up the Alligator river ahead of storms

"Maggie" in the Alligator River

Someone screwed up (perhaps a barge)- a channel marker knocked down in the Alligator River

Storm clouds over the North River

Today we had some new travelers - a bunch of colorful dragonflies - I took the photos over a about a 30 minute period whilst Gloria navigated the North River

Dragonfly resting on the hatch cover

Mosquito Madness

Mosquito Madness   ...   Friday 21 June 2013

We awoke to find the cockpit covered in small mosquitoes.  All we could imagine was an overnight hatching from some pool of water on the boat, most likely the cockpit drain.  Not having a bug spray on board, we decided to try spraying the area under the dodger and the cockpit with Mike’s Famous Fish Killer (vodka).  This seemed to kill off some of the insects.  Shockingly, when Mike stepped out to wipe up the dead he found the whole cockpit covered in small green dots.  While the speckling was bad in the cockpit it was also present on the side decks and very bad at the stern of the boat.  We frantically tried to find something to remove it.  In the end we managed to clean the cockpit itself using ‘Softscrub with Bleach’. The area under the dodger and the cockpit took about an hour to clean.  We still need to tackle the side decks and stern. We have no idea what caused the green “speckles” – does anyone have any ideas.

We finally set off at about 10:30 am.  We travelled out of Belhaven Harbor and encountered a barge before we had gone half a mile.  We overtook that one and carried on up the Pungo River to the Alligator River-Pungo River canal.  The trip along the canal was uneventful with the exception of the last half a mile.  Just as we could see the open water at the end of the canal, our view was blocked by a barge entering the eastern end of the canal.  We slowed down and scooted over to starboard.  Keeping one eye on the depth, one eye on the cypress stumps at the edge of the canal, we watched the barge approaching.  They shot by us after many tense moments.  I find myself wondering how it’s going to work out when this morning’s barge meets this afternoon’s barge in that narrow canal.

We are now anchored in the Alligator River, battling more insects. This time it’s the horse-fly variant known as greenheads.  These biting flies are the most persistent little devils.  The boater’s lot is a tough one….  

Gloria

Position: 35 40.443N 76 03.408W

A Record Breaking Day

A Record Breaking Day …   Thursday 20th June 2013

Today we broke two records - our wettest sail in Cotinga and our fastest recorded speed through the water. It was a great day! We were pretty sure that the first part of our journey today along the Neuse River would be pretty rough because it was choppy yesterday and now the wind was blowing 20 knots from the north east and we needed to cover 12 miles in that very direction. The river itself is also shallow (< 20 ft) and has a 100+ mile fetch from the NE up Pamlico sound. We raised the main sail with one reef whilst still at anchor and then motored out into the river. It was wild with very short period 3ft breaking waves. We opted to motor sail off the wind and try and avoid taking the waves right on the nose. In this we were partly successful, but because of the really short period between waves we would occasionally bury the bow with a loud clank as the anchor banged into the bow roller and a large plume of spray cascaded over the boat. It was very bumpy, very wet and to be honest, quite exciting! One load of spray came right over the dodger and drenched us both. It would have been a great opportunity to take photos but it might have been my last with this camera as it would have been soaked. I did try taking a couple of shots from behind the dodger - but I really need  a water proof camera.

Once we had cleared the shoal at the junction of the Bay and Neuse rivers we were able to turn more to the north, pull out the genoa and kill the engine. We had a fabulous sail for the next 5 miles or so, then dropped both sails and motored up Goose Creek channel. This gave us a chance to make and eat some sandwiches, after which we emerged into the Pamlico river, raised our sails and again switched off the engine. Crossing this river to the north east proved less challenging, the wind seemed to have eased a little and the waves were definately less fierce. We tacked our way across and then headed up the Pungo River on a fast and furious close haul. We consistently kept speed of 6.5 - 7.5 knots and at one point we saw 8.3 knots on our knot-meter, a new boat record for us … (and that was with a reef in, just showing that less sail doesn't necessarily mean less speed). We also "smoked" another yacht that was motoring up the river - always a good feeling when sail beats power! All in all it was a wonderful day of sailing. I have never felt more confident in our boat - it felt absolutely solid even as we were fighting our way through nasty chop, and once free to go she sailed brilliantly through the calmer waters. 

We arrived at the Pantego Creek off Belhaven at 3.30 pm having covered about 40 miles (by the most direct measure) in about 7 1/2 hours. We stopped at Belhaven on the way south but were underwhelmed when we found the sole restaurant was only open one or two days a week. Tonight we have no plans to go into town, not least because our dinghy "the Dumb Dog" is strapped in her kennel on the foredeck!

p.s. I think the cockpit shower display in Beaufort was too much for Gloria - I've just seen her head up the companionway with the garden sprayer … but this time she's in a bikini! 

N35 31.860, W 76 37.327

Rough water on the Neuse River - (photo taken through the old dodger)

Close hauled in the Pamlico River 

Material Attraction

Material Attraction   …   Wednesday 19th June 201

We had a wild storm last night. It was about 2.30 in the morning and started with light rain, but quickly became a torrent with high winds, thunder and lighting. We closed all the hatches and I lay in bed clutching the hand held GPS that we always set up as an anchor alarm. I've never been that confident the GPS alarm would wake us up if we were dragging but it's great to be able to monitor your position when it's really howling outside. The trusty Rocna held just fine and I was just about to drift back off to sleep when water started dripping on my face - it turns out I hadn't done a very good job of closing the hatch above me and the water had dripped through, pooled in the hand rail, only to work it's way through and torment me. After the storm we slept in until 8.30 - I think the latest we have ever slept on the boat! To be honest I think events will show that I didn't really wake up until 11.15 am.

Our plan for the day was to leave Beaufort around lunch time and head north up the ICW with favorable tide and current, but as the morning progressed the wind, which had moved round to the North East, along with the current in Taylor creek, conspired to drive us uncomfortably close to the other boats so at about 11 am we decided to raise the hook and head out of the anchorage. We had plenty of time to make the 11.30 am opening of the Beaufort Bascule bridge that we needed to pass through, but almost blew it as we narrowly avoided running aground on a sand bar right next to the docks. I'm not exactly sure why I thought the little yellow buoys (that I couldn't read) would signal a "no wake" zone when the chart clearly shows a shallow section on it. I must still have been asleep. However, as we got closer I was able to read the fine print … "danger" … and it dawned on me that this particular route wasn't a good idea. I quickly stopped the boat, backed up and went around the offending shallows. Note to self: suggest engage brain before engaging transmission. Not two minutes later we saw another boat come out of the dock and run aground at almost the same spot. It seems that lead and sand have a strong affinity for each other.

We had a steady and uneventful motor up the Adams Creek canal and out into the Neuse River. The favorable currents we had planned for in the afternoon turned out to be 1-2 knots of adverse current in the middle of the day. When we arrived at the Neuse river we motor sailed with the genoa to cover about 6 miles of very choppy water and then turned into the South River to anchor. Once through a narrow buoyed section the river opens out into a beautiful bay where you could anchor anywhere in 9-11 feet depths. We chose a spot on the east shore not far from the entry channel, but noticed that all the other boats were anchored together about a half mile further south. Two boats that followed us in from the Neuse River also headed to the larger gathering. We did feel a strong sense that we should be anchored near the others, like they are in the "right" place.  Gloria says this is another example of her brother Rod's theory that fibre glass attracts - which certainly seems to be the case in tight anchorages! Well it's very peaceful right here and we are settled in for the night. Perhaps the other boats are all cruising together … but perhaps we are also starting to revert to our anti-social ways!

Mike

34 58.137 N, 76 34.748 W

Fishing vessels in Beaufort

The basqule bridge Beaufort - opens on the half hour 6am - 10pm except 8am-9am and 4.40pm - 5.40pm

Learn to love those barges!

Sunset over the South River anchorage

A very early start

A very early start   ...   Tuesday 18^th June 2013

After a long hard day of sailing, it’s hard to face those things that you really don’t want to do.  For example, what could be worse than needing to shower on the deck or in the cockpit when it’s blowing 22 knots and you are anchored across from a busy town waterfront.  I hear you saying blowing 30 kts would be worse…. Well for now I’m avoiding that inevitability by writing the blog.

We had agreed to get up at 4 am and get going.  I was awakened by the sound of footsteps on the deck at 3:30 am.  Mike was already up, taking off the sail cover.  The good thing about the earlier start was that we got breakfast and made sandwiches for lunch.  It’s easier to be happy on a full stomach.  We got underway just after 4 am.  It was very dark going out of the Masonboro inlet and quite bumpy.  Once outside we turned to the northeast toward Beaufort. The waves were rolling the boat from side to side. We held off raising the sails because there didn’t seen to be enough wind and the value of having the mainsail up when you are motoring downwind is questionable.  I was glad to have taken my seasick medicine with my breakfast.  Early on we did see some flashes of lightning and later in the day heard thunder.  It might be fair to say that the weather was unsettled early on and at one point we even had our foul weather gear on in the rain. 

After 5:30 when it was getting light and the wind seemed to have strengthened we put up the main and found that we were able to move along at six knots or better on a broad reach.  Over the next few hours we had pretty good wind as we sailed through some bands of showers. Sometime after lunch (which was consumed at 10:45) the wind became lighter and the sails were banging around too much.  We motor sailed for for a couple of hours, sailing off the wind to stop the main banging round, and in the early afternoon we were able to go back to sailing for a while.   We arrived at the inlet to Beaufort at about 3 pm.  This meant we had favorable current coming in—all part of the clever plan.  Once anchored, we collapsed on the settees, drinking cold beverages and reading our books.  I think we should be pleased to have accomplished this big open water sail - including  the the sections to and from the inlets it has to be about a 70 nM trip.   Instead we are just tired. A good night’s rest should fix that.

Well, Mike has taken his “al fresco” shower.  I guess I can’t put it off any longer.

Gloria 

On  a broad reach to Beaufort - a band of showers in the distance. At one point we touched 8.2 knots - the highest through water we have recorded - but later the wind dropped right down and we were forced to motor sail

Gloria looking serious at the helm

Back in the Saddle

Back in the Saddle   …   Monday 17th June 2013

Low tide in Wilmington, NC was at 10.45 this morning and to ensure that we had adequate depth to get out of the marina and back to the channel in the Cape Fear river we opted to delay our departure until early afternoon. It was a blistering hot morning but we spent the time finishing up some boat jobs, cooking an apple pie and making some Bolognese sauce. At 12:30 we fired up the engine and headed out. We saw 7.3 ft on the depth sounder but once in the river proper the depths were really good. We motored south directly into a pretty stiff breeze and also the incoming tide, which took 2 knots off our speed over the ground. The good news is that the cleaning and fresh anti-fouling paint has given us an extra knot or more of speed through the water - the boat feels good! After about 8 miles or so we turned to the east and took Snow's cut through to the Intracoastal waterway and turned northwards for Wrightsville Beach. At this point we had some current with us so the remaining 10 or 12 miles went quickly and we were anchored behind the town by 4:45 pm. It looked like a large thunderstorm was brewing to the west so we were happy to get the hook down, but apart from a few sprinkles the storm seems to have dissipated. It felt good to be on the move again, but it seems like we have lost our sea-legs and are very conscious of every movement of the boat. Similarly it's probably blowing 15 knots of wind outside and we've become unaccustomed to the noise and find it a bit unnerving. Anyway we are well positioned to make the passage to Beaufort tomorrow. Hopefully we'll be able to sail rather than motor - it just depends on how much the wind settles overnight. Downwind is not our fastest point of sail and we do need a decent breeze. It's a 65 nM passage so we want to be able to make reasonably good progress. We'll let you know tomorrow how it goes.

Mike

Chores and Preparations

Chores and Preparations   ...   Saturday 15th - Sunday 16^th June 2013

Inevitably, we were up pretty early on Saturday.  We had a day of errands planned.  These fun activities included laundry, grocery shopping and refilling the propane tanks.  The only place that we could get our special, ten-pound tanks refilled was at a KOA campground.  We got lost on the way, adding to the joy.  Then one of the tanks was leaking on the drive back—filling the car with a lovely, sulfury smell.  It was almost like being back in the lab…

Today, we looked more carefully at the charts and weather.  We came to the conclusion that we should depart tomorrow for Wrightsville Beach.  That should allow us to do the outside leg to Beaufort [NC] on Tuesday, before the bad weather arrives on Wednesday.  The impending departure touched off another round of chores.  We emptied and refilled our water tanks, washed down the decks and tried to figure out the problem with the shower sump pump.  Either there is a short in the wiring (seems unlikely) or in the pump.  Looks like we will be showering on the deck for the rest of the trip.

We are nearly ready to set off tomorrow.  I feel worried that I might have forgotten how to sail.  Let’s hope it's like riding a bicycle...

Gloria