No Picnic! … Sat 23rd – Sun 24th June 2018

No Picnic!   …   Sat 23^rd – Sun 24^th June 2018

I was looking forward to the inland section up the intra-coastal Waterway (ICW) from Beaufort to Norfolk. I thought it would be relaxing and a good time to reflect on the trip as whole. It’s actually been quite a challenge!

We left Belhaven early on Saturday morning with the intention of anchoring either at the south end of the Alligator river, where we have stayed previously, or some twenty miles further on at the north end at a place called South Lake. We made good time during the morning and decided to make the most of the southerly winds and clear skies and head for South Lake. The only problem we encountered was the Alligator River swing-bridge that is supposed to open on demand but took more than 20 minutes because of  "heavy" road traffic. We were left bobbing in swells generated in a 15-mile open stretch of water with 15-20 knot winds as one car every once in a while would pass over! Anyway, after clearing the bridge we turned east and made our way into the beautiful and secluded South Lake. One of our guide books gives this anchorage top-marks in every category except shopping facilities (Gloria was gutted!). It is lovely. We let out 60 feet of chain in 9 foot depths, tested it carefully and relaxed for an hour before the first storm hit us. I had just told Gloria that I thought the nasty looking weather to the north would miss us. Wrong again bird-brain! We noticed a strange motion to approaching clouds and almost immediately the wind started. For the second time on this section we were smack in the middle of a tremendous storm with thunder and lightening. The instruments showed that winds peaked at 42 knots as the rain lashed down and visibility deteriorated to near zero. Happily, this time we did not drag and within the hour the sun was back out and we feasted on a family favorite of shrimp and grits.

Around 8.30 pm I looked out and saw how dramatic the sky looked and came up-top to take some more photos. I told Gloria that I wasn’t overly confident that this storm would miss us and sadly my concerns were well founded. Once again, we were hit with another powerful storm cell. This time only 37 knots of wind, but the thunder and lightening seemed worse, perhaps because it was by now dark. By 11pm all the storms had passed and the rest of the night was peaceful. All in all a bit stressful, but a great photo opportunity (see below).

We were up and underway by 8 am on Sunday. We have never had such a hard time getting the anchor up. To say it was well bedded in the mud is an understatement, which is actually reassuring, although my white shirt may never recover from the mud cakes! We headed north out of the Alligator river into Abermarle Sound and had a bumpy 12 mile passage over to the North River, down-wind motor sailing with the genoa in 10-15 knots of breeze. We were less than two miles from the entry channel of the North River when the engine died … again. No problem in the open water out in the sound, but a real issue in the winding narrow channel ahead. I changed the water separator and switched fuel tanks and it re-started, but then died again. I then replaced the fuel filter on the engine and blew out the fuel lines and managed to get it going again - thank goodness. A few miles further on we met a huge barge that squeezed us out of the channel into 7 feet of water, and we were only 10 feet from his side. We were relived to arrive at Coinjock marina around 1 pm and have had a busy afternoon doing various boat jobs and cleaning, including another attempt to suck grunge out of the bottom of the main fuel tank. We got some out, but it didn’t look too bad. I’m not sure what is causing the fuel supply to be so problematic.

Tonight we are off out to eat at the marina restaurant which is famous for its prime rib. Tomorrow we brave four bridges and one lock in the final 50 miles up to Norfolk.

South Lake, NC: 35 54.84 N, 75 54.36 W

Coinjock Marina, NC 75 57.1 N, 36 20.8 W

Dragonfly - taking a ride on Cotinga

Dragonfly - taking a ride on Cotinga

Dragonfly - taking a ride on Cotinga

A nasty "green head" - these buggers bite!

Storm 1 approaches - the clouds were really swirling underneath

The wind and torrential rain start

As the winds peaked at 42 knots it became hard to make out the shore

The peak winds only lasted a short while, but they would rate "force 9 /severe gale" on the Beaufort scale. I can't imagine being out at sea in sustain winds of that strength.

Storm 2 arrived at sunset and created some amazing light

The long exposure shots capture the atmosphere to some extent, but not the power of the lightening

There were no houses, lights or boats in any direction - splendid isolation. 

For a while it was fun to take photos - but then the wind and rain hit and we just cowered below as thunder crashed all around. I wondered if we would have to take to our dinghy if Cotinga was hit by lightening or whether we would deploy the life raft, or just be dead!