Creeks , Canals and Rivers

Creeks , Canals and Rivers

Monday 19th too Tuesday 20th May, 2025

We have travelled this particular section of the ICW from Beaufort, NC to Norfolk, VA many times in both directions. In fact, we have never sailed this section offshore, partly because we are intimidated by the prospect of rounding the infamous Cape Hatteras. In truth, I’m sure it’s fine if you pick a good weather window. Despite our familiarity with the area, we have really enjoyed the last few days. 

The route covers quite a variety of locations. There are narrow windy creeks, lined with marsh grasses and trees, as well as wide rivers like the Neuse River and Pamlico River, with 50 miles or more of open water to the east. The winds have been quite light and so conditions in the big rivers have been mild, but in some conditions they can be really miserable, with steep, short-period waves. 

Last night we anchored a half mile off the ICW in the Pungo River. It was quite beautiful and we experienced the most fantastic sunset. We made an early start because we had close to 50 miles to go to our next stop. The first 20 miles were along the Alligator River - Pungo River canal, dead straight for 20 miles except for one bend. Nonetheless it is beautiful and we saw several bald eagles. The south end of the Alligator River is also attractive, but once you turn northwards it opens up into a wide and featureless expanse of water. It’s not my favorite spot and today, with winds of 10-15 knots from the north east, we just bashed our way northwards for 20 miles.

The only real excitement to a trip up the Alligator River is the swing bridge at the northern end. On many occasions we have been forced to motor in circles, waiting for the bridge tender to relent. We thought we were going to be golden today as we listened to several boats requesting openings and seeing the bridge tender cooperate rapidly.  Sadly, there was a “shift change” just as we neared the bridge!  Once again it was trying to keep the boat in place while we waited for seven other vessels that were following us to close the gap.  Evidently, eight was the magic number for the bridge tender!

After clearing the Alligator River Swing Bridge we cut out of the ICW to anchor about 4 miles to the east in “South Lake". We stayed here in 2018 and got caught in some of the worst thunderstorms we have ever experienced! We had forgotten just how wild and beautiful the anchorage is. Once again there are T-storms forecast for tomorrow morning, but hopefully they don’t materialize to much. Our plan is to cross Albermarle Sound and that would not be fun in a thunderstorm.

Mike

35 55.153 N, 75 54.729 W

Sunset in the Pungo River

Early morning in the Pungo River

Approaching the start of the Alligator River - Pungo River canal

There was a lot of traffic today - most of it going a similar speed to us, but some power boats going a lot faster. This boat was doing 20 knots as it came up on our stern, but we communicated by VHF radio and the captain, who was charming, slowed down and gave us a comfortable slow pass.

As well as all the pleasure boat traffic, many commercial barges frequent the route

A solitary tug heading south in the Alligator River